Elephants under Kilimanjaro

Amboseli is where the classic Kenya photo comes from: a line of elephants walking across the plain, with the snow-capped dome of Kilimanjaro floating behind them.

Amboseli National Park is small, about 392 square kilometres, in Kajiado County on the border with Tanzania. Kilimanjaro itself is just over the border, but the best views of it are from the Kenyan side.

The park is mostly dry, dusty plain, with green swamps in the middle. They are fed by water that melts on Kilimanjaro, runs underground and comes up in springs, so there is water here even in the driest months. That water is why the elephants stay.

The elephants

Amboseli's elephants are among the most studied in the world. Researchers have followed the same families here since 1972, and many of the big bulls, with tusks that nearly touch the ground, are known by name. Because they are used to vehicles, you can watch them closely as they wade into the swamps to feed.

Two days in Amboseli

Day 1. Drive down from Nairobi in the morning and arrive for lunch. Spend the afternoon around the swamps, where elephants, hippos, buffalo and pelicans gather, and stay out for the sunset over the plain.

Day 2. Be out at first light, when Kilimanjaro is most likely to be clear. Climb Observation Hill for the view over the swamps, then look for lions, cheetahs and hyenas on the open plains before an afternoon drive.

When to see Kilimanjaro

The mountain is often hidden in cloud by mid-morning. Your best chances are from sunrise to about 9 am, and again in the late afternoon. The dry months, June to October and January to February, are clearest and best for game viewing.

Getting there from Nairobi

It is about 240 km, or around four hours by road. Most people go down the Mombasa Road to Emali and turn south to Kimana Gate, or take the Namanga road to the western gates. Both are tarmac most of the way; inside the park the tracks are dirt and can be dusty in the dry season.